Wave Type Wavelength (m) Wave Period (sec) Wave Speed (m/sec) -wavelength/period Water Depth (m) Water Motion (not to sc

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Wave Type Wavelength M Wave Period Sec Wave Speed M Sec Wavelength Period Water Depth M Water Motion Not To Sc 1 (77.97 KiB) Viewed 27 times

Wave Type Wavelength M Wave Period Sec Wave Speed M Sec Wavelength Period Water Depth M Water Motion Not To Sc 2 (76.59 KiB) Viewed 27 times

Wave Type Wavelength (m) Wave Period (sec) Wave Speed (m/sec) -wavelength/period Water Depth (m) Water Motion (not to scale) Wave Profile Deep-water waves Waves Wave Characteristics Table Deep-Water More than Wave m Water depth greater than 1/2 wavelength Transitional waves Wavelength Transitional Between, mand. Wave 0001 Water depth between 1/2 and 1/20 wavelength Shallow-water waves m 20 Wavelength Shallow-Water Breaker Less than 3 Wave Water depth less than 1/20 wavelength Surf m Beach Not to scale Figure 6A-1. Wave characteristics table. The water motion section of Figure 6A-1 shows vertical cross-sections of advancing surface waves and the motion of individual water particles as surface waves progress shoreward. The side views show the changing positions of surface water particles as the crests and troughs of the wave pass. In the diagram of the greatest water depth, particles of water exhibit essentially circular motion, called orbits. The circular motion of water particles diminish downward to a depth of one-half the wavelength. At greater depths, no significant water motion is associated with the passing wave. These deep-water waves have no effect on the ocean floor.
1. According to the caption below the vertical cross-sections in Figure 6A-1, a surface wave behaves as a deep-water wave if the water depth is greater than its wavelength. a. 1/2 b. 1/20th c. 1/50th Ocean surface waves entering water of decreasing depth begin to "feel" the presence of the ocean floor are transitional waves, and the character of the waves is altered. The intermediate vertical cross-section in Figure 6A-1 shows that the vertical displacements of water parcels follow oval paths that become smaller and more flattened with increasing depth, until just above the ocean floor. 2. The water particle motion in a transitional wave is essentially 3 a. only up and down b. only horizontally back and forth c. both up and down, and back and forth A shallow-water wave is a wave traveling through water with a depth less than 1/20 the wavelength of the wave. The vertical cross-section to the right in Figure 6A-1 shows the progressive flattening of the orbits with depth. 3. A shallow-water wave a. induces b. does not induce motion of water parcels on the ocean floor. Observing and Measuring Waves The AMS Wave Analyzer video, depicted in Figure 6A-2 at its initial setting, is provided to investigate how water waves change as they move from deep water to shallow water, with a view from above the shoreline. The brown beach is across the top while the light blue water covers the rest of the area. The beach surface and the ocean floor slope gradually downward in the direction of the open ocean, water depths indicated by shallow, transitional, and deep. The white window, with 10-m ticks on the right and time, in seconds, at the end, provides a view of successive waves as they progress from deep water to shallow water. Boats, represented by their symbol, are anchored observational platforms with their bows pointed toward the window view, revealing wave crests advancing shoreward.